1.Fit For

Make    Model    Year Range    Specific Details
FORD    EXPEDITION    1997 – 2002    RWD (Rear-Wheel Drive) Models ONLY
FORD    F-150    1997 – 2003    RWD (Rear-Wheel Drive) Models ONLY
FORD    F-150 HERITAGE    2004    RWD (Rear-Wheel Drive) Models ONLY
FORD    F-250    1997    4.6L and 5.4L Engines ONLY ; RWD ONLY
LINCOLN    BLACKWOOD    2002    RWD (Rear-Wheel Drive) Models ONLY
LINCOLN    NAVIGATOR    1999 – 2002    RWD (Rear-Wheel Drive) Models ONLY
  

2.Package Includes:

1x Front Lower Control Arm + Ball Joint Assembly (Driver) – K620056
1x Front Lower Control Arm + Ball Joint Assembly (Passenger) – K620055
1x Front Upper Control Arm + Ball Joint Assembly (Driver) – K8726
1x Front Upper Control Arm + Ball Joint Assembly (Passenger) – K8728
1x Front Outer Tie Rod End Link (Driver) – ES3366
1x Front Outer Tie Rod End Link (Passenger) – ES3367
2x Front Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link – K8772
1x Front Inner Tie Rod End Link (Driver) – ES3365
1x Front Inner Tie Rod End Link (Passenger) – ES3364

 

Notes

  (1).Please check the fitment chart above before payment making sure all the suspension parts listed on this page are compatible with your automobile.
  (2).Please refer to Moog official website before narrowing down your search so as to avoid unnecessary item not as described return requests.

  (3).Please contact our customer services for targeted discount after all the items are received if you have reached any targeted discount thresholds, the terms of which is at the bottom of this page.

 

If you are interested with any other suspension parts, please click and save our store.

 

Control Arm Bushing Replacement Reference:

  Control arms themselves do not generally wear out, but the control arm bushings and ball joints do, so you will likely need to remove them to service those components. Yet, some OEMs or parts suppliers do not sell bushings and ball joints separately, so you may have to purchase the entire control arm and replace it as a unit. Also, control arms can become bent or damaged as the result of a collision or driving through a deep pothole, so control arms do need to be inspected for damage. Many control arms are now made from forged or sintered aluminum, so you may need to measure for damage or check it on an alignment machine.

Picture(A)
1.Remove the coil spring and steering knuckle by following the steps in previous skill drills.
2.Loosen the bolts holding the upper control arm in place. Note that there might be shim packs held in by the bolts. If so, tape them together in their packs, and label their positions.

 

Picture(B)
3.Remove the lower control arm by removing the bolts holding it in place. As you dismantle the system components, carry out a constant inspection of the parts being removed. Doing so will aid you when you need to order replacement parts. You should also mark mating parts with white paint to aid in reassembly.

 

Picture(C)
4.Inspect the upper and lower control arm for wear or damage. If the control arm bushings show signs of excessive wear or deterioration of the bushing material, they will have to be replaced.
5.Replace the worn bushings in the upper and/or lower control arm. Replacement of control arm bushings can be performed two ways — with a hydraulic press with correctly sized press tools or with an air chisel. Be careful using an air chisel: Damage to the control arm can result, such as gouging the mounting surface of the bushing if you slip with the chisel.

 

Picture(D)
6.Press method: Place the control arm in a hydraulic press supported so the bushing is level to the press head. Using the correct-sized adapter, press the bushing out.

 

Picture(E)
7.Using the press, install the new bushing into the control arm. Be careful to start the bushing in straight, or you could bend the control arm. Press it in until the flange bottoms out.

 

Picture(F)
8.Air chisel method: Install the control arm in a vise. Use an air chisel to work the bushing out. Be careful not to gouge the mating surface of the control arm.

 

Picture(G)
9.Using the air hammer, drive the new bushing into place, making sure it is fully seated.

 

Ball Joint Preventive Maintenance:
  Some ball joints use zerk grease fittings, which allow for periodic lubrication of the moving ball and stationary socket inside the ball joint. Grease fittings can sometimes be found on other suspension components and need to be lubricated as part of a preventive maintenance program provided by the OEM.

 

Loaded Upper Ball Joint Play Measurement:

  The most common problem in the suspension system is play, or looseness of the parts. Although many of the parts are designed with special connections that allow for movement to accommodate movement of the wheels, excessive play is actually a bad thing. Excessive play magnifies the feel of road imperfections and makes the steering less responsive to steering wheel input. Excessive play is potentially very damaging, as it causes wear on the connecting parts and tires. Naturally, any amount of play in a fixed part is problematic and is frequently a result of part failure. Remember, unwanted looseness in the suspension system can be extremely dangerous and should be corrected as soon as possible.

Picture(A)
1.Obtain a properly sized block of wood to fit between the upper control arm and the frame.
2.Place the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame so that it is secure.

 

Picture(B)
3.Raise the vehicle by lifting the body, using the specified lift points, so that the tire is a few inches off the ground. Support the body with a jack stand.
4.Place a dial indicator on the upper control arm and vertically against the steering knuckle.

5.Place a pry bar under the tire, and pry it upward, watching the dial indicator reading as you pry and release. Record the total amount of movement in the joint, and compare to the OEM specifications.

 

Picture(C)
6.Rock the bottom of the tire in and out, watching for play in the lower ball joint, and compare to OEM specifications.

 

Loaded Lower Ball Joint Play Measurement:

1.Jack up the vehicle, place safety stands under the control arms, and look up the exact procedure in the online service information.
2.Place a dial indicator on the lower control arm and vertically against the steering knuckle.

3.Place a pry bar under the tire and pry it upward, watching the dial indicator reading as you pry and release. Record the total amount of movement in the joint, and compare to the OEM specifications.
4.Rock the top of the tire in and out, watching for any play in the upper ball joint specifications.

 

Tie Rod End Removing Guideline:
  Tie rods make the final connection between the steering linkage and the steering arms. The point of connection with the steering linkage is considered the inner tie-rod end, and the end that connects to the steering arm is considered the outer tie-rod end. Checking tie rods is important in identifying steering problems because the ends are frequently damaged or worn. There are two basic types of tie-rod ends: spring loaded and preloaded. Each type has its own procedure for inspection and replacement of the ends. Replacement of tie-rod ends requires an alignment to be performed, or rapid tire wear will occur.

Picture(A)

1.Safely raise the vehicle on a lift.
2.Inspect the rubber bellows for any signs of leaks, tears, or damage.

3.With the vehicle raised, have an assistant turn the steering wheel to one side or the other and rock the steering wheel from side to side.
4.On the side farthest out, squeeze the bellows until you make contact with the inner ball joint, and feel for any play in the inner tie-rod joint.
5.Repeat this procedure for the other side.
6.If play is found, replacement of the inner tie-rod ends will be necessary.

 

Picture(B)

7.Remove the front wheel for the side being replaced, and loosen the locknut on the tie-rod end.
 

Picture(C)

8.Remove the cotter pin and nut holding the outer tie-rod end to the steering arm, and separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle, using a tie-rod removal tool, the double hammer method, or a pickle fork.

 

Picture(D)

9.Count the number of turns to remove the outer tie-rod end from the threaded sleeve.

 

Picture(E)

10.Remove the spring clamp from the bellows boot end to the inner tie-rod shaft, and remove the crimp clamp from the bellows boot to the rack-and-pinion housing. A new crimp clamp will have to be used on replacement of the boot.

 

Picture(F)

11.Remove the bellows boot.

12.Using an inner tie-rod tool and the specified wrench to hold the rack, loosen the inner tie rod from the rack, and remove the inner tie-rod end.

 

Picture(G)

13.Install the new inner tie rod in reverse order of removal, and verify that the play is gone.
14.Perform alignment to reset toe after replacement is performed.

15.Test drive to verify repair.

 

Sway Bar Stabilizer Link Removing Guideline:

  The sway bar stabilizer components help prevent body roll when cornering. Although the stabilizer bar itself rarely gives any trouble, the rubber bushings on the bar and links wear out. This usually results in increased body roll as well as a clunking noise in the suspension. The stabilizer components should be checked whenever a vehicle is brought into the shop because of handling concerns or suspension-related noises.

Picture(A)
1.Safely raise the vehicle on a hoist, or use a jack and place safety stands under the frame.

2.Remove the nut holding the stabilizer bar link.

Picture(B)
3.Remove the link by hand.

 

Picture(C)
4.Visually inspect the rubber link grommets for cracks, softness, brittleness, or wear. Repeat with the other link.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

(1).Why should I get my tie rods inspected on a regular basis?
  If you don't get your tie rods inspected on a regular basis, there are some warning signs to watch (and listen) for. If your vehicle pulls to one side while driving, or when braking, it's possible that bad tie rods may be the culprit. Your vehicle's tires will also show uneven wear on the inside and outside edge of the tire when there's a tire rod issue. However, one of the most noticeable signs of tie rods going bad will be a knocking sound coming from the front end of the vehicle when you turn into a parking space, or some other low speed, tight turning situation.

 

(2).Vibrations
  One of the first symptoms that your tie rods are damaged or breaking is that the steering wheel will vibrate slightly. This is especially prevalent when you are speeding up or turning. This happens because the steering wheel is losing its control over the tires, causing the steering wheel to shimmy as you drive.

 

(3).Shaking
  As the tie rods become further damaged, you will start to notice that the car itself will start to shake. This happens because the tires may start to wobble without you having full control over them. Although you

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